Be sure to read a walkthrough before you get deep into 8 Eyes or you’ll pay.
Whew! Welcome back everyone, this game has been quite the challenge! After doing some research on the game and skimming over a walkthrough guide I was finally able to defeat the Duke of Spain. It was a glorious occasion indeed! Let’s take a look at some of my final thoughts on 8 Eyes before I move onto the next game.
This game is hard. Super hard. As in difficult. A guide of some sort is almost necessary for this game as there are no in-game or hints in the game manual that I could dig up online regarding the correct stage order. You’ll also need to know the location of all the hidden power-ups to have an easier time succeeding at the boss battle. When I played the game without the knowledge I gained from the walkthrough the game seemed ten times more difficult than it already was. It was frustrating enough to make me throw a controller, but I resisted. All difficulties aside, the scene after the boss battle was totally worth the effort. Check out my gameplay video of the boss battle here.
Overall, the game wasn’t bad. For the approximately five hours I spent playing the game, while at times frustrating, I enjoyed the game. The only downsides I experienced were the steep learning curve and the extreme difficulty. You’ll want to spend a good one to two hours to build some skills and learn the mechanics of the game before you really dig into it. The upsides were the music and the added depth of having a bird as a second playable character. This is definitely one of those overlooked games from the past that would benefit from a modern reboot.
Well, that’s all the time I’m going to spend on 8 Eyes for now but who knows, I may return to it in the future! Next up on the list is the letter A! What random game will it be? Keep an eye on my twitter or instagram to get a sneak peek before I post tomorrow!
8 Eyes is a very unforgiving game. Make a mistake and you’ll pay times ten.
Welcome back retro gaming fans! I’m just about ready to wrap up 8 Eyes and move on to the next game, a random game beginning with the letter A. I just wrapped up a session earlier today and one thing I can say is that this game is tough! The difficulty is high and every mistake you make counts against you massively. Each playthrough I did I became more efficient and eventually had a few decent battles with the boss of the Spain stage. Let’s hope my next session goes well and I defeat the evil Duke of Spain!
Stay tuned for more retro gaming action as I pick a random game from the letter A! What will it be? Check back later this week to find out!
8 Eyes for the Nintendo NES. What is this game all about? I’ll take a look as I play this game from the classic NES.
Welcome back! Hope you’re ready for some random retro games! This week’s pick from the list starts with the number 8. The game: 8 Eyes. Let’s take a quick look at this game from the late ’80s/early ’90s!
While playing the game for the first time, I noticed a couple of things: The game is an action platformer that is strikingly similar to the Castlevania series and the music is excellent. Graphically, the game looks okay for the hardware it’s on, but the music is really where the game shone for me after my hour long quick play.
The gameplay, as you might have guessed, is a lot like Castlevania as well. Your character uses a sword instead of a whip, there are secondary weapons, stairs to climb, doors to go through, and secrets hidden in bricks, all of which are very similar to Castlevania. Not much new or original so far. There is, however, a feature that sets it apart from Castlevania: you have (limited) control of your bird friend! Controlling the bird is a bit janky, but I found out it is necessary to use the bird to hit otherwise inaccessible switches to open doors. It’s kind of a cool feature that adds a little depth beyond the standard platformer formula.
The game features seven different castles to explore, along with The House of Ruth which I assume can only be accessed after completing the seven castles first. As I pondered which castle to visit first, I simply selected the castle my cursor was on, Arabia. After unsuccessfully playing each stage a couple times, I thought “Damn, this game is difficult!” as I considered looking for a walkthrough for the game to assist.
Now, I’ll be playing this game a little more after I do a little research on it. So far, the game plays like a standard platformer and I foresee difficult jumps at some point in the game as your character cannot change direction midair. Other than the bird adding a bit of depth, the game seems pretty shallow and adds few new features beyond what Castlevania offered earlier in the ‘80s. It’s not a bad game so far, it just hasn’t hooked me with anything groundbreaking apart from the music.
That’s about all I have on 8 Eyes for now. I’ll be doing some research and playing the game with some help from a walkthrough to hopefully advance through some of the castles before I write up my final thoughts. Stay tuned for that and more retro games in the future!
Check back later this week for some sweet 8-bit gaming action!
Hey everyone! Hope you all had (and still are having) a great weekend wherever you are. The past couple of weeks have been eventful and I’ve been having a great time getting back into the gaming scene! With that being said, I’m going to shift my focus from Cyberpunk a little bit to get started on a retro games project that I’ve had sitting on the shelf for months. Starting tomorrow I’m going to take a trip back to the 8-bit era with a look at some random titles for the NES from A to Z (don’t forget the #!). So that’s 27 titles, A-Z plus one title with a number, randomly chosen. I’ll give them a play, take a few notes, and let you know what I think. I also plan on recording some gameplay clips to give you all a look at the games in action. If you like retro games or just games in general, make sure to check back later this week for some exciting new content!
Whew! It’s been a wild ride on the train to Night City.
Welcome back chooms! I’ve been having a blast playing Cyberpunk 2077 and now that I’m just shy of 30 hours into the game, I’m ready to share my first impressions of the game.
First, I’ll quickly go through the hardware I’ve been using to play this game. I’ve been playing the game on a PC running a Ryzen 5 3600 with 16 GB RAM and a GTX 2060. With a tweak I found on the PC Gamer website (I didn’t test it to make sure it worked, or even if it did anything, derp) I set everything on High or Ultra settings with DLSS on and was able to achieve framerates around 70fps. I was very happy to see that my machine could handle the game. With ray tracing on though, my frames tanked by around 20+ fps, and while it’s still playable and looks great, I like to keep my frames around 60 for maximum visual enjoyment.
As for the game, I’m really enjoying it. All bugs/glitches aside, the game is a visual treat and the music is stellar. The synthwave/darkwave/whateverwave music really gets me pumped when I play and I’ve really been digging the photo mode. The story and dialogue has also been enjoyable even though I haven’t touched the main story much! I’ve decided to do a slow crawl through the game, completing side missions and leveling on the way to create an Ultimate V with maxed stats. Ha! We’ll see what happens.
Now, I did mention the game has some glitches. So far none of them for me have been game-breaking and I’m sure by the time I get to some of them (slow crawl, remember?) a patch will be released to fix the issues. Most of the ones I noticed were graphical or AI and while they did pull me out of the game a little, they didn’t pull away from my enjoyment of the game. I guess most people expect a AAA game release like this to come out of the gate perfect and a lot of people were pissed about the quality of the game, and rightly so, especially for console gamers. As for myself, I’ve played some Early Access titles over the years, and while it’s kind of like paying to be a beta tester, it gives you a little look into what the development process is like. I was into Rust back during early access and that was a wild ride for sure! With that in mind, I’m a bit more indifferent towards the situation. I’m sure the game will be fixed in time but I can certainly understand why some gamers are upset. The game feels like a paper you handed to your teacher/professor the night before and wonder why you got a C on it. They likely know you rushed it, and it shows in the work. Certain things in the game do feel like they were rushed or unfinished. I won’t get into the detes too much, but in my opinion I would have been okay if they had delayed it for another month or two to make sure it was rock solid before release. But, what’s happened has happened and CDPR is going to have to work hard to earn back the trust of many gamers.
Well, that’s about it. Is it a good game? I think so, especially if you’re into cyberpunk genres like Shadowrun. One of the only things missing from that series is the Matrix, which I think would’ve been a cool addition but then again, it might not exist in the Cyberpunk universe. Dang, I’m off track! Anyways, if you’re on the fence about trying it and have a PC that can play it, give it a shot. It’s been good fun so far.
What’s up choombas!? It’s been a little over a week since the release of the much-hyped game of the year, Cyberpunk 2077. I caught one of the last hype trains to Night City, and boy has it been a wild ride. Before I dig into the game tomorrow, let’s take a quick look at my gaming background.
My gaming credentials start with the NES and SNES so I have a soft spot for those old retro classics of the 8 and 16 bit era. Then came the PlayStation, Dreamcast, and PS2. After that came the college times, and Halo multiplayer was all the rage. Eventually, I built a PC and got into PC gaming for a bit and then a few years later I went into a gaming hibernation for a while. I didn’t really play many games for a few years. Fast forward to today and I just built a new PC for some sweet AAA gaming action and Cyberpunk 2077 reeled me back in.
In short, I like retro games and I play a lot of different genres but lately I have been into games with survival and crafting aspects. Games like Fallout 4 have been my thing lately and I had some fun with Rust back when it was in Early Access. I also like checking out indie games and lesser-known titles. FrostPunk from 11 Bit studios was one of my favorites from 2018! Plus, there’s always time to get one more turn in Civ VI and I like to squeeze in time for a few games of chess as well.
I’m going to be honest here, I didn’t know much about Cyberpunk 2077 until recently. I’m a fan of the Shadowrun series of games, I enjoy the cyberpunk genre and that was my intro into it. Back during the summer I caught wind of Cyberpunk 2077 when its release date was set for November. I thought “that sounds like a cool game, I might try it out in November.” The release got delayed, and I pre-purchased it the week before and waited in anticipation for the release.
Now, this is probably my first AAA game I’ve purchased to play on release. In the past, I generally would wait a year or two for big titles to release their greatest hits or game of the year edition, so I never really got into the hype. After jumping on the CP2077 hype train, I quickly noticed the hype was definitely real on this one and it was a fun ride while it lasted. Now, I’m over 20 hours into the game, the honeymoon phase is over and I’m about ready to dole out some first impressions of the game soon. Check back tomorrow to see what I think about the game!
The PC is built and ready for Cyberpunk 2077. See you in Night City!
We’ve got all the parts and now it’s time to put it all together! If this is your first build, it may be a bit daunting, but watch some tutorials on YouTube to get a feel for how it’s done first and then give it a shot. It’s really not too difficult, sort of like putting together a Lego set– everything snaps into place and only fits one way. With that said, let’s start by installing the CPU, RAM, and heatsink/fan onto the motherboard before we do anything else.
The CPU installation is pretty simple: lift up the lever, match up the little triangles on the corner and drop in the chip. It only fits one way and it should drop right into place. Lower the lever and you’ve just installed the CPU. Easy peasy. Next, let’s put the RAM in place.
RAM is another easy install. If you’re using two sticks of RAM, make sure the sticks are in the correct slots, for my board slots 1 and 3 were the ones to use. Check out your motherboard manual for the correct configuration for your particular board. There’s a little notch in the RAM stick that will line up with the one in the slot. Make sure you open the levers on the side and press the stick into place until it clicks into place. Do the same with any remaining sticks of RAM. You’re done! Now, let’s move onto the heatsink/fan.
Installing the HSF (heatsink/fan) looked like a bit of a challenge, but in the end it was just a little bit more difficult than dropping in the CPU. I watched a few install videos and took the advice to install it outside of the case to make it easier. I’m glad I did. With the Gammmaxx 400, you will need to first install the correct bracket for your CPU socket. After that, it’s time for the thermal paste. Put a pea-sized dab on top of the CPU and install the HSF. The dab of thermal paste will spread out as you press it on and install it. If you’re nervous about installing it like I was at first, watch a few videos to get the hang of things, and when you’re confident, go for it and install it. I thought it seemed to require a little bit more pressure to install than I was expecting but overall the install was pretty easy considering this was my first tower-style cooler I’ve installed (I’ve always just used the stock box coolers in my previous builds).
Next, grab your case and open it up. Take a look and get an idea of where the motherboard will live in the case. Make sure the standoffs are in the proper place for your motherboard screws. My case had them preinstalled for a standard ATX motherboard so all I had to do was press in the I/O shield and slide in the motherboard. Make sure all the ports line up with the I/O shield before you attach any screws and secure the motherboard with the screws that came with your motherboard or case, there should be about nine for a standard ATX motherboard.
Next you can put in the storage drives. These are pretty simple to install. The setup of these depends on your case, the manual that came with the case should give you an idea of how these fit in. Grab the SATA cable and attach it to your motherboard and drive and put it into place. Done. Now to put in the PSU and power it up!
I had quite an adventure with the PSU. But before we get into that, let’s get the PSU installed. There are three types of PSUs that I came across: Modular, Semi-modular, and non-modular. I decided to go for the modular, which means you can detach any of the cables you don’t need for better cable management. The main cables you’ll need to power your PC are the MB, CPU, PCI-E, SATA, and if you have a lot of fans you’ll want to add the ACC cable as well. Find the connections on your motherboard, attach the cables to their respective pieces of hardware and secure the PSU with the screws. Attaching the cables before installation is much easier than installing the PSU first and installing the cables. After the PSU is secured and the cables are all attached, (double check the connections to be sure!) it’s time to power up your PC for the first time! Wait! I forgot– make sure all your case jumpers (Power button, Reset, front USB, etc.) are attached to the motherboard as well! Now, let’s fire it up!
Now, it’s important that you know where the power button is on your case. I didn’t know where the power button was at first, so I kept pressing the reset button without any result. I tried different power cables, re-attached cables and still no power. I even picked up a spare power supply and got the same result. Then, I realized with a facepalm, I was pressing the reset button instead of the power button. I thought the power button was just a Cooler Master logo on the top of my case. Derp, oh well. It fired up fine with the spare I picked up and I was pumped! But, I had to troubleshoot my original PSU and see what was up. I tested it again later on and still nothing. I knew it had to be an issue related to the PSU so I ended up filing an RMA with EVGA. My motherboard just doesn’t seem to like the EVGA PSU, and soon enough I’ll have an answer for this mystery.
That’s it! You built a PC! All that is left is to install an OS: Windows 10 or any of the various flavors of Linux should work fine. Fire it up, run benchmarks, be productive! Or join the fun in Night City and play some Cyberpunk 2077! I’ll see you there!
The guts of the build. Is it enough for Cyberpunk 2077? We’ll soon see.
The easy part is over, and now it’s time to go over the rest of the build: the GPU, case, storage, and finally the PSU to power it all! Let’s go over the case and storage first:
The case I chose was pretty basic: the CoolerMaster NR600 Masterbox. It’s your basic case with a tempered glass side panel. It has plenty of room for fans and enough room to move your hands around without banging around too much. I also purchased some extra fans for cooling. The Masterbox comes with a couple installed already but I added 3 more for added airflow. My last case was a CoolerMaster as well and this one is a nice choice for the price.
Nowadays, your options for storage are varied. There’s M.2 drives that are superfast, SSDs that are becoming more affordable, and the old reliable HDDs available for data storage on your PC. I really wanted to stretch my budget for a M.2 drive, but I opted for a 240 GB SSD for the OS and frequently used apps and paired it with a good old 2 TB HDD for general storage. I know, HDDs are kind of old tech, but that much storage for under $100 is a great value. Plus, there’s always room to upgrade to one of those M.2 drives in the future.
Finding a GPU at a decent price was an adventure. First, I had to ask myself: “AMD or Nvidia?” In the past, I used a Radeon card in my PC but for my new build I wanted to try an Nvidia card. I wanted something that would be powerful enough to play AAA games on Ultra settings at 1080p with at least 60 FPS. I used the Logical Increments guide and at first I was looking to get a RTX 1660 Ti for the build. GPUs were tough to find all around. Out of stock at retailers and overpriced by scalpers. I looked for another card, something a bit more powerful but still within my budget, which I extended since I saved a few bucks on some of the other parts. The 2060 Super sounded like a great deal if there were one to be found at a decent price. Most offerings were at least $100 over regular retail. Heck, most of the GPU prices were boosted $50-$100 beyond their regular retail. At first, I figured I’d wait for stocks to refill and prices to normalize until I did a little research on the subject. Prices and stock sounded like they’d be iffy for a while, so I jumped on it and went for a vanilla 2060: the MSI Ventus XS. I was also eyeing the Phoenix edition, it had a compact design but only one fan, and the reviews noted that it gets a little warm under load, so I opted for the Ventus for the GPU. The price wasn’t terrible (I think it was about $30 over regular price) and it was more than enough to power the games I was looking to play. If you’re building a PC right now, think about getting a lower end card now, and upgrade next summer when the GPU situation is resolved.
Finally, there’s the PSU to power it all. I did a bit of research (maybe not enough) and read some articles on what to look for in a PSU. I’m actually not sure if the research helped (more on that in my next article) but I ended up going for an EVGA Supernova 650 GT modular PSU. It’s a brand I’ve heard of, it had at least 600W which gives ample overhead for upgrades, and it had a 80+ Gold rating. I’m still at a bit of a loss on what these ratings actually mean, but I figured it looked like a quality PSU with Japanese capacitors. Keep in mind your power needs when buying a PSU, there are several calculators out there to estimate these numbers to help you select a unit that will be adequate for your needs.
That’s it for today! The parts are acquired and the build is ready! The next and final part will be putting it together and firing it up! After that, I go into my long descent into Night City for a while, so stay tuned!
New game, New PC. Will my PC have the guts to play Cyberpunk 2077?
The last time I built a PC from scratch was way back before 2010, probably around 2006 or so. It wasn’t terribly difficult, I had some guidance from a knowledgeable person from some message boards I frequented. It was fun and gave me the satisfaction of having a custom machine. Since then I’ve replaced the mobo and graphics card, but this is the first time since then that I’ve built a PC from scratch, so it was a new adventure being over 10 years since I’ve been familiar with PC hardware, and let me tell you, this build was an adventure indeed. Let’s jump into the build.
Now, the first thing you should ask yourself when you build a PC is “What am I going to use this PC for?” Are you going to use it for gaming? General purpose? Video editing? These important questions will be essential when you begin looking for parts.
Now, the main reason I decided to build a new PC is a bit multifaceted. First off, my graphics card crapped out on me, (I think it may be because the games I was playing may have been too demanding for the card, I’ve also heard Radeon cards tend to run on the warm side). Next, the new consoles launched recently: The Xbox series X and S and the PS5. That means a bunch of new AAA games coming to the new consoles and PC! I’m definitely hyped for Cyberpunk 2077 and I somewhat modeled my build around the projected recommended system requirements. Finally, I wanted to take advantage of some new technologies: DDR4 RAM, Ryzen CPU, and Ray Tracing for the GPU, as well as having the option to upgrade, notably the M.2 drives I’ve been hearing and reading about that are superfast. So having a nice new motherboard was a must. Let’s jump into the core components: Motherboard, CPU, and RAM, heck, let’s throw the heatsink in there too.
For the CPU I wanted the best bang for my buck. After a bit of research, the Ryzen 5 3600 fit the bill. It has 6 cores running at a base clock of 3.6 GHz which is two more cores than the Phenom II I had in my old machine, and the reviews I’ve seen for it have been positive. This CPU is a great value, and at around $200 it will leave you extra room for a better GPU, extra RAM, or any other goodies you might want to add to your build.
Next, the Motherboard. When you’re picking out a motherboard, it’s important to make sure it is compatible with the CPU socket of the chip you’re using in your build. The Ryzen 5 is an AM4 socket, so I needed a board with that socket type. I used the website Logical Increments to help pick out a lot of my parts for the build. I chose their recommended motherboard from the “Good” tier, the MSI X470 Gaming Plus Max. It’s also important to make sure your board is compatible with the RAM you’re going to be using so make sure to check out the motherboard manual of the board you choose before you lock in your purchase. It’ll save a lot of time and headaches in the end.
Let’s check out the RAM situation. Generally, I don’t buy the least expensive option when I’m purchasing RAM. Look for brand names rather than off brands. Kingston, Crucial, G.Skill and Corsair are all good brands of RAM. I went for 16 GB of G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 RAM which my motherboard supports. 16 GB of RAM seems to be the standard these days, 32 seems to be a bit overkill but is standard by some builders these days. You can get away with 8 GB at the minimum, but I do like to run VMs sometimes as well, so 16 GB was my number.
All of these components need to stay cool to run optimally, especially the CPU. Cooling is also a must if you want to overclock your CPU. There are a ton of options out there: Tower Coolers and AIO liquid cooling setups seem to be the most popular, but I know there are a ton of custom cooling setups out there as well. I was looking for a great value cooling solution and I did a bit of research on the recommendation from Logical Increments, the Deep Cool Gammaxx 400. The reviews are good on this one and at around $25-$30 it is a great value to keep your CPU cool. It comes with a blue LED to light up your case and fits the AM4 socket even though the box doesn’t indicate it. I was sold when I checked out this review of the Gammaxx 400. It kept the CPU 15 degrees C cooler than the stock cooler in the Prime 95 test. I’m not planning on overclocking my CPU (yet), but keeping your system cool reduces the stresses of excessive heat, and is a definite must if you are overclocking your CPU.
Well, that’s all for part one. Part two will be the rest of the parts and part three will be putting it all together. I’m shooting to finish the series before the Cyberpunk 2077 launch, which is 6 PM CST, so let’s hope I don’t get too absorbed in the hype while I wait to play this game!
The parts. Ryzen 5 3600. MSI X470 Gaming Plus Max. G.Skill Ripjaws V. DeepCool Gammaxx 400 HSF.
The Labists starter kit is a great kit to get up and going right out of the box in minutes.
Before I get into the details regarding the Labists kit, the main reason I made this purchase was to score an 8 GB Raspberry Pi 4. They were hard to find at the time, and when I broke down the price, the Labists kit seemed like a good value to me at $120 (a 8 GB Pi by itself runs around $75). It had a decent looking heatsink and fan, so I figured it’d be good to use for my Ubuntu setup. After I set it up and tested it out, I was a little underwhelmed by the performance. Let’s take a look:
The kit includes everything you need to get started with your Pi: the Pi itself, case, heatsink/fan, power supply, SD card, and the proper HDMI cables. The heatsink comes with a fan already attached and as a bonus, it has some RGB LEDs that light up and change color when the unit is on. A neat aesthetic touch that doesn’t add to the performance, but looks kind of cool. The case itself looks nice, basically it’s a standard Pi case with a clear vented top to show off the lights. It was fairly easy to put together and in minutes I was booted up and ready to test the kit for cooling.
The Argon One case was the baseline I used for testing the Labist kit. The Argon One did a great job of keeping the Pi cool at around 45 C idle. I figured with the Labists large heatsink and fans it would do a similar job of cooling the Pi. I was a bit disappointed with my findings. The Labists idle temp was about ten degrees higher than the Argon One, and when I did a quick stress test the Labists setup hit 80 C, which is a bit on the high side for me, and at that temp the Pi’s CPU started to throttle. I even tried thermal paste in place of the thermal pads to see if it made a difference. It might have shaved off a couple degrees, but the Labists still remained a bit on the warm side.
If you’re not overclocking or pushing your Pi to the limit, the Labists kit isn’t a bad setup. For a beginner wanting something easy to set up and use out right of the box, this might be for you. If you’re looking for a case with exceptional cooling performance for overclocking, look at something else like an Argon One to meet your needs.
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